Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe Ruins - Gonarezhou - Chimanimani - Bvumba - Nyanga - Kotwa

 Norma Jeans, over looking Lake Mutirikwi (Kyle) 

No. Of days in Zimbabwe: 18 Days

Border Fees :  Beitbridge R 730

Average Cost per day : R 630

Milage : 2 360 km

Where have all the South Africans gone ?

“It’s an offence to have anything on your backseats, other than passengers.  ” said the policeman at one of the thousands of road blocks we were to encounter while in Zim, “so that is a $20 fine.”  I knew this was a bullshit charge.  He had walked around our car to see if all the stickers where in place, asked for the TIP, looked at my drivers license twice ( & Lyndas' who wasn't even driving), wanted see the fire extinguisher and  warning triangles & when he  couldn’t find anything wrong, invented an offence.  I tried to reason with him, but it is pretty pointless trying to argue against Mugabe logic.  “Just pay the fine & lets go “ said Lynda, fearing that I might end up in Chikarubi Prison.  Being a person who doesn't like communal showers, I paid the fine.

We had spent 5 amazing days in Gonarezhou & were on our way to Chimanimani & the Eastern Highlands. 

Gonarezhou is destined to be placed on many a South Africans bucket list. It is Game Park bordering the Kruger Park & Mozambique & makes the Kruger Park feel like a zoo.  Similar to Mana-Pools, the campsites do not have fences & the animals are free to wonder around, but unlike Mana-pools the crowds are not there & you don’t have to book a year in advance. Another thing in its favor is that it is just over the border from SA, braving the infamous Beit Bridge Border post & police road blocks being the only obstacle.

 Our campsite overlooked the Runde River and in the late afternoon, the ellies would come down to drink. The boisterous young bulls would play for hrs in the water, a welcome respite from the afternoon heat. At night you would fall asleep with the sound of elephants tearing at branches and the crashing of trees as they were pushed over.   Having elephants walking through your camp within 5 meters was something I had not experienced before.

Ellies playing in the Runde River - Chipinda Pools - Gonarezhou

The roads are well maintained, but rough.  A high clearance vehicle is essential, a 4x4 preferable.  It forces you to slow down& drive at Africa’s pace.  She is not built for speed.  If she was I would have missed the wild dogs on an impala kill and the rest of her beauty & animals she cared to show me.

Sundowners with a glass of Springfield "Life from Stone" - Campsite 2 - Chipinda Pools - Gonarezhou

Gonarezhou was not the first place we stayed at, it was Norma Jeans overlooking Lake Mutirikwi.  The reason for coming here was for the Zimbabwe Ruins.  I am not talking about the whole country, but a place where a once powerful city stood.  The dry wall structures were fascinating as our guide explained life here 500 years ago. It was hard to imagine how such a powerful an ancient city had gone to ruin, but then again, being in Zim, it wasn’t really.

It was sad to see Zim in such a state, but things are much better now I was told so many times.  It will get better when the ‘old man’ dies.  Things do seem to be getting better.  The shops are fully stocked, and you can get fuel everywhere. There is a 2 tier monetary system & you can pay for anything in either rand or dollars.  If you pay in dollars & they haven’t got change, they will give it to you in rands – confusing at first, but it works.  A lot of the campsites are old & tired & in need of a good renovation, but they are clean – some of them spotlessly clean.  The local Zimbabweans are proud, but humble people.  We were told stories of how people would walk miles to Mozambique & back, when there was no food.  One old lady told us, that they followed the monkeys around, to see what they ate & ate the same so they wouldn’t poison themselves.

Baobab Tree - Gonarezhou

Zimbabweans want & need tourists to start coming back.  In the 3 weeks we spent in Zim, we only saw 4 overlanders.  Once at Norma Jeans, once at Gonarezhou & 7 German foreigners in Bvumba Mountains on their way to Mozambique.

Tessa's Pool - Chimanimani

While hiking in the Chimanimani mountains, we met Dave from the Outward Bound Zimbabwe.  He was busy teaching locals of all age’s leader ship skills.  “If all Africans went through a place like this” he told us, “Africa would be a much better place.”  Dave was happy to see us & glad that South African Tourists were slowly starting to come back.  “Please pass the word around,” he pleaded, “We need you guys to start coming back. “  Dave was aware of the 2 biggest problems that prevented South Africans from coming over.  One was the slow chaotic confusion of beaurocracy at Beit Bridge Border post & the other was the Police road blocks & corruption.  They were working on it, he assured us.  To be quite honest, out of the hundreds of road blocks we went through – at least 5 a day, we were only fined twice.  Most of the times they were polite & waved us through.  They were stopping all cars & not targeting the South African cars like in Mozambique, but it only takes one corrupt policeman to leave a sour taste in your mouth.  Those who do adventure over will be experiencing Zimbabwe in the raw.

Ellies playing in the Runde River - Chipinda Pools - Gonarezhou

The road to nowhere

Sitting around a boiling donkey to keep warm, drinking Black Label,  Lynda and myself were having a good laugh.  How did we end up back in Nyanga Campsite after traveling about 300km in 9 hours.

  The plan, that morning was to head up north to Pumpkin Hotel – Kotwa, about 20 km from the border & then cross into Mozambique.  The distance from Nyanga to Pumpkin was about 200km, but our GPS said it would take about 4.5hrs – this had to mean a lot was dirt roads, even though Garmap said it was tar.  We broke up camp early & set off.  Going via Trout Beck, which is on top of a Plateau.  It was very misty up there & we had to drive about 30km an hr.  After descending the plateau, the scenery in Manicaland was really beautiful with the dolomite rock out crops.  The road was one of the best we had been on so-far.

   

 After a while the tar ended – we had about 100 km of dirt road.  In the beginning it was fine – you could see that it had recently been graded.  Then the huts and farming land got scarcer & the road got really bad, forcing us into 4x4 low at quite a few places & driving at 30km max.  When we hadn’t seen a vehicle for about 40km and the villages where no more, this should have been a warning sign.  After about 60km the biggest warning sign arrived.  Lynda spotted some small red signs that had been deliberately placed in the trees.  They were a skull & crossbones, that said “Danger Land Mines“.  We decided to push on.  We were more than half way & only had 40km to go, when it all happened.

 The road seemed to be getting better or so we thought.  I bit of pessimism I realize in retrospect, because suddenly it ended.  What lay ahead was a 500m stretch of sand and water.  Stretching between the 2 banks was a huge concrete bridge structure, with the main section missing & lying in pieces below.  This had clearly been washed away by floods & not too recently either.  Down below in the river-bed were hundreds of locals in small groups.  There was a group of 3 closest to me, then there were 2, then 1 , then none, then one more re-appeared.  I realized that all these people were mining – probably for alluvial gold.  Across the other side & so tantalizingly close we could see 2 new SUVs parked next  an old, almost dilapidated building.  We could see what looked like tyre tracks leading down into the river bed.  Neither Lynda nor myself wanted go back at this stage.  We had completed the worst & Mzungu had performed well.  Lynda pointed out the tyre tracks & suggested I go and have a look to see if we could perhaps get across.  Reluctantly, I agreed, and headed down a steep bank and started walking to the other bank.  All good so-far and if I let down my tyres , I was sure I could do it, but the river lay ahead.  From where we were on the other side, it had looked like it was possible.  All around me heads kept popping up.  Two Mzungus lost in the middle of nowhere, must have seemed an easier loot to the miners, than what they were doing.  I got to the first part of the river and walked across.  It was only about ankle deep & the sand seemed hard underfoot.  After crossing a small dune I got to the other section of river.  It was wider than the first & the other side was only about 10 meters away.  Unfortunately, between me and the other side, was a channel that I judged to be at least waist deep.   I could get across.  Lynda could get across, but there was no-way we could get Mzungu across.

When Lynda & myself first started out on this trip, we knew that things would not go to plan.  We  agreed not to panic or get cross with each other as there was always a plan B or C or D.  So with plan B now in action, we headed back to where we had come from.

Ellies playing in the Runde River - Chipinda Pools - Gonarezhou

Lyndas Favourite things.... Zimbabawe

The friendly people of Zim....even the police at the road blocks. For people who have been through so much...their endless capacity to smile and try and please is amazing.

The ellies right in our camp at Gonerezhou.

Making the best mash potato from locally grown spuds bought at the side of the road. Am done with bread and pasta.

Enjoying a Savanna bought at the Spar in Zim....it has been 3 weeks since the my last one!!

Spending a morning catching up on washing (by Hand) and then having a whole pile of clean clothes to choose from...see how simple life is?

Sitting in our tent with the rain pouring down and realizing that how much I miss the thunderstorms of the Highveld

.

Making the best bush pancakes ever...with some squashed banana, Nutella and a tin of condensed milk....I knew those ammo boxes full of stuff would come in handy!

Jumping into my new sleeping bag on a chilly misty night in the Highlands and feeling roasty toasty.

Despite overloading on carbs (they cheap), I have still lost weight...take that Tim Noakes!

Travelling through the National parks in Zim remind me of S.A in the 70s. Things like the hot water donkey being lit every afternoon. Or the man who comes out of the hut at the gate and salutes you.

Geting upset when some tourist sets up camp so my view is ruined and thne laughing at Kevin when he says “ you don’t own Africa!.....Too true but I like to think I do!

Visitng old colonial icons like the Leopards Rock hotel and Rhodes’ old house in Nyanga which is now a museum and hotel. Despite everyting these places are still going and will hopefully be around for years to come.

Finding a bottle of the worlds best olives, homemade by Dad....thanks Dad... and realizing we need little and it is the small pleasures that make life special.

Discovering that Kevin and I have a unique and special relationship and that this is gonna be one hellava ride.....whoop whoop!!! 

Chilojo Cliffs - Gonarezhou

Nyangombe Falls - Nyanga

Campsite Report

Norma Jean’s Lake View Resort & Campsite - Zimbabwe

Cost  -  R 90-00 pp  |   No. of days Stayed  -  2  |  Wi-Fi  -  Yes   |  Electricity Point  -  Yes

Reason for staying: To visit the Zimbabwe Ruins

Attraction: Zimbabwe ruins

Rating:  9/10

Comments:  The campsite is tucked away on a hill in an indigenous forest overlooking Lake Mutirikwi.  It is & quite, clean, friendly and has well organized shady sites.  Ablution blocks are new & spotless. 

Norma Jeans

Gonarezhou - Zimbabwe

Cost  -  R 215-00 pp +a R110 car entry|   No. of days Stayed  -  5  |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |  Electricity Point  -  No

Reason for staying: Gonarezhou National Park

Attraction: National Park

Rating:  9/10

Comments:  Amazing Camp site – Camp not fenced off – had elephants every day & night in the campsite.  Great view over the Runde River, with elephants bathing.  Did not even need to leave the camp for game viewing. Each site has its own thatch roof boma and a braai. Firewood for sale @ $5.  Would have given it a 10 out of ten. But the ablutions were not cleaned every day and although we were the only ones there…the wild life does leave its mark as in bat droppings and frogs etc.  We stayed at camp 2.  Best camps 2 & 3.  3 had more shade but was quite far from the ablutions.  Camp 9 was also very good with lots more shade was right next door & overlooked the tented camps – not as private as the others.

Camp 2 @ Gonarezhou

Heavens Lodge - Chimanimani

Cost  -  R 50 pp |   No. of days Stayed  -  2  |  Wi-Fi  -  Yes   |  Electricity Point  -  No.  Can use electricity from the lodge

Reason for staying : Chimanimani Mountains

Attraction : Hiking

Rating :  7/10

Comments :  Chimanimani has had it hard.  In 2000 the hurricane off Mozambique devastated the area, washing away roads & bridges, restricting access to the mountains.  About the same time Mugabe started the land grabs & tourists stopped coming to Zim.  Sadly Chimanimani  started down the slippery slope into decline.  Like a prom queen, who has fallen on hard times, her real beauty still remains.  For 10 years,  people like Alan from Heavens lodge stayed behind.  With no tourist & very little income in the area, they were forced to cut back and let staff go. So who are the winners in all this?

But  things are starting to look a bit better now with tourists slowly starting to trickle back & he is busy trying to bring the lodge back to its former glory.  Dave from Outward Bound Zimbabwe  is working hard to encourage people back to the area – especially South Africans.  There are some great hikes in the area.  Dave was very accommodating , in letting us hike down to Tessa’s Pool on the Outward Bound Property to spend the afternoon there. No charge.

Hivu Nursery/ Hycroft Lodge – Bvumba

Cost  -  R 80 pp/ R 100 pp on weekends |   No. of days Stayed  -  3  |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |                  Electricity Point  -  No.  Can use electricity from the lodge

Reason for staying : Bvumba Mountains

Attraction : Hiking & Botanical Gardens

Rating :  8/10

Comments :  I really liked this place.  The people were friendly & the security guard Godfrey, had to be one of the nicest person I’ve met.  Even though there is not much shade, it does not get very hot up there & in the mornings the hills are shrouded in mist.  Campers have use of the upstairs lodge, which has electricity, gas stoves, fridge & all cooking utensils - more like a backpackers.  It is a great place to get away from the summer heat .  With the indigenous forest, it felt more like being in Tsitsikamma than in Zim.  We didn’t go to the botanical gardens – the $10pp entry fee was not in the budget.  We hiked down to Leopards Rock Hotel.  This iconic nipple pink Hotel reeks of a bygone era.  It was a favorite of the late Queen Mother and Princess Diana – we can always pretend.  Tonys' coffee house was quite expensive.  R 60 for a bottomless cappuccino.  But it was one of the best coffees I’ve tasted.

Mare/Nyanga Caravan/campsite - Nyanga

Cost  -  R 80 pp camping – R 100 once off car entry – R 80 pp once off  Park Fee |                                No. of days Stayed  -  4      |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |          Electricity Point  - Yes

Reason for staying : Nyanga Park

Attraction : Hiking & waterfalls & natural swimming pools

Rating :  8/10

Comments :  The 4 days we spent here, we had the place to ourselves, except for 1 night.  Like the rest of Zimbabwe’s campsites, the ablutions are old & tired, due to lack of funds, but they were clean & working.  We never lacked for anything – power points, braai area & plenty of free wood.  Every night a fire would be lit under the donkey & we had hot showers.  Six hundred meters from the campsite, is a big natural swimming pool, with a sandy beach.  We drove to Nyangombe Falls.  A 4km 4x4 road & then a short hike to the falls.  The falls are a beautiful series of cascading waterfalls, with secluded pools.  Once again we had the whole place to ourselves.  Not too far from the campsite & within walking distance is Cecil Rhodes’ summer house.  This is now a museum & Hotel - $2 pp entry fee – well worth it.

Nyanga

Pumpkin Hotel - Kotwa

Cost  -  R150pp      |        No. of days Stayed  -  1      |  Wi-Fi  - Yes   |          Electricity Point  -No

Reason for staying : Close to the Zim\Moz. Border through to Tete.

Comments :  I think it would be unfair to rate this place.  If there ever was a place that had been hard hit by the Zim situation this is it.  The cottages/Chalets  were in what was clearly a landscaped garden – but the buildings were needing repairs.  I had e-mailed them about camping & they had replied with costs.  When we arrived the camp site almost but didn’t exist – I suppose with the little amount of income they receive, the maintenance of the camp site would be the last  thing on their minds.  The staff were extremely friendly and hospitable – something that was common through-out Zim.  They tried to persuade us to take a room, but we were on a budget.  When they realized that we only had money for camping, they told us it was our lucky day & they were upgrading us to a ensuite bungalow, with air-con, fridge & TV.  What they could control, they excelled at and put all their effort into.  The tables were all laid with white starched table cloth, and serviettes  were all folded in a fancy shapes,  with polished cutlery – but nobody to dine.  The rooms were clean and well serviced, but were all empty.  I went to have a look at what I presumed was the campsite. The ablution block was falling down & definitely not in operation.  It was next to a pool, that must have been rocking in its heyday.  The large kidney shaped pool flowed into  a thatched Bar area & I could imagine guests swimming onto the bar for a cocktail, without having to get out of the water.  Unfortunately, there was no water, except a green puddle in the deep ends.  All the light fittings were removed & there were holes were the water jets once were.  Even the fountain at the deep end had been taken apart.  It was so sad to see the staff  trying their utmost to keep the place running with a lack of income.  They seemed very apologetic, for something that was beyond their control & clearly not their fault.  When we had settled in, they came with bottled water, as it was extremely hot.  There was no electricity, so the aircon or fridge wasn’t in operation.  When we wanted internet, they put the generator on for an hr.  It was the best internet reception we had since leaving SA.  The electricity only came back on at 9am, by that time we were in bed.  Like with the rest of the places we stayed at, I really hope things get better for them.  They could definitely teach South Africa something about hospitality.

Pumpkin Hotel