Malawi

Blantyre - Mulange Massif - Zomba Plateau - Liwonde - Palm Beach - Cape Mc Clear - Senga Bay - Nkhotakota - Ngala Beach - Makuzi Beach - Nhkata Bay - Mkondowe - Livingstonia - Sangilo

No. Of days in Malawi : 28 Days

Border Fees :  Zobue/Mwanza  R 660

Average Cost per day : R 453

Milage : 1 746 km

The rare & shy Sykes Monkey - Mulanges

Tobacco, Tobacco everywhere, but not a leaf to smoke.

I had started to run low on Tobacco.  Let me tell you nobody wants to be in my company when I get the cravings and can’t get nicotine.  I am more irritable than Julius Malema with a bunch of English journalists.  In Zimbabwe, where tobacco is grown, they only sold cigarettes, but no rolling tobacco.  The same in Blantyre, so when there, I decided to make a serious effort to get hold of some.  Once again, there were only cigarettes for sale, but more interesting, they also sold Rizla papers.  At the lake where the backpackers hang-out, you will find notes on the signboards saying “Hi, I am from England & am currently in jail for carrying drugs.  I really need someone to talk to.”  Some unfortunate dude had exchanged a couple of hours of Malawi Gold bliss, for 6 months of dull scenery & communal showers.  If Malawi is trying to clamp down on their biggest export, then why are they selling Rizlas, but no tobacco.  I tried to think of all the different uses for Rizla, but could only think of two.

Zomba used to be the capital of Malawi before Banda decided to move it to Lilongwe.  Zomba Plateau towering above the town is where people go to get high without being chemically impaired.  The cool altitudes are reached by a winding road.  We came here after hiking the Mulanje Mountains, to do some more hiking.  There are suppose to be some great walks through the Pine forests, with Queens View & Emperors View overlooking the town towards Mulanjes, Mozambique & beyond, but it was like playing darts blindfolded.  The mist had rolled in so thick, you couldn’t see the moisture dripping off your eyelashes.  Young maidens could have been bathing in the stream that ran past our campsite & we wouldn’t have seen them.  We had two days of this.  So what does one do in this kind of weather ?  Light a fire?  Blow the budget & drink Carlsberg?  See how many uses there are for Rizla?  We did all of the above.

Tea Estate at Mulanje Mountains

Zomba Plateau

Sunset - Cape Mc Clear

Cape Mc Clear

Campsite report

Karo O' Mula - Mulanges

Karo O’ Mula

Cost  -   R 115 pp                        No. of days Stayed  -  6      |  Wi-Fi  -  Yes   |       Electricity Point  - NO Reason for staying: Malanges Massive

Attraction: Hiking

Rating:  6/10

Comments : The place was really great.  Pool Bar, swimming pool & the camping area on grass, with lots of shade under magnificently huge trees.  Unfortunately they are not yet geared up for campers & should  have of charged accordingly.  There was no electicity, washing up area, taps near the camp area & the mens ablution was unusable.  Using the ladies wouldn’t have been a problem, except the place gets quite busy especially on the weekends.  The 2 campsites, were also slap-bang in the middle of the pool area.  This meant rowdy people drinking & thumping music till late at night.

A misty Trout Farm Campsite - Zomba Plateau

Trout Farm – Zomba Plateau

Cost  -   R 32 pp               No. of days Stayed  - 3      |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |       Electricity Point  - No

Reason for staying:  Zomba Plateau

Attraction: Hiking

Rating:  8/10

Comments :  Extremely good value for money.  If you want to get away from the African heat for a few days this is the place to go.  I was here 20 yrs ago & the weather conditions were exactly the same.  The plateau & forests were shrouded in mist.  The toilets & showers are a days hike away from the camping area, but hey, did I not come here to hike ?

Bushmans Baobab Lodge & campsite

Bushmens Baobab - Liwonde

Cost  -   R 85 pp             No. of days Stayed  -  3      |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |       Electricity Point  - No

 Reason for staying: Liwonde National Park & the Shire River

Attraction: : Liwonde National Park & the Shire River

Rating:  9/10

Comments :  An amazing campsite adjacent to the Park & over looking the Shire River

Nkopola Campsite

Nkopola Campsite - Mangochi

Cost -   R 109 pp             No. of days Stayed - 1      |  Wi-Fi  -  No   |       Electricity Point  - Yes

 Reason for staying: Half way stop between Liwonde & Cape Mc Clear

Attraction: This I where they have the Lake of stars festival, otherwise none

Rating:  5/10

Comments:  This is where the Lake of Stars Festival is held & it is what a place would look like after a rave.  I don’t know why we stopped here, should have pushed onto Cape Mc Clear.  Place is run down & grubby.  The lake was not much better.  The only thing going for it is that you can use the pool at no charge at Sunbird, which is about 1 km walk down the beach or a 3 km drive – a necessity, because I wouldn’t swim in that part of the lake.

Nkopola Campsite - Mangochi

Chembe Eagles Nest

Cost  -   R 105 pp             No. of days Stayed  -  4      |  Wi-Fi  -  Hotspot   |       Electricity Point  - Yes

 Reason for staying :  Cape Mc Clear

Attraction: : diving & snorkling

Rating:  8/10

Comments :  When we arrived, we knew that this place was owned & run by a South African who has done some camping in his life.  Everything a camper needs & wants was there.  Shady grassed patch with power points, braai, clean ablutions, washing up area conveniently situated, friendly & welcoming staff & right near the lake with great views.  The owner told us they would be putting in a pool next year.  This will really make this place attractive, as the north eastern & middle part of the lake in Cape Mc Clear has become quite dirty, with lots of bags, plastics & other floaties, which doesn’t make swimming there very attractive.

Sunset @ Cape Mc Clear

Steppes Camp site  -  Senga bay

Cost  -   R 60 pp             No. of days Stayed  -  3      |  Wi-Fi  -  Hotspot   |       Electricity Point  - Yes

 Reason for staying: Chill out by the lake

Attraction: Lake Malawi

Rating:  8/10

Comments :  This campsite is run by the Sunbird Lodge & is value for money.  It is situated at the end of a long road & has its own private beach with golden sands.  Being quite a distance from the village, the water is clear and unpolluted.  The place is shady & spotlessly clean.  Every morning they sweep the beach sand.  It does, however, come with a warning.  It is open to day visitors & on the weekends, be prepared for loud, noisy locals playing there Doff-Doff music at maximum volume.  We arrived on a Friday & every day- visitor had music blaring from their car.  The staff were extremely friendly & helpful & sympathized with the situation.  They allowed us & other over-night campers to use the old campsite, which was between the lodge & the new campsite.  Despite this weekend  irritancy, I would still recommend this campsite.  We had a look at another campsite in the area & this was definitely the better option.

View from our campsite at Steppes

Makuzi Lodge & campsite

Cost  -   R 115 pp             No. of days Stayed  -  4      |  Wi-Fi  - Yes - free   |       Electricity Point  - Yes

 Reason for staying: Chill out by the lake

Attraction: : Lake Malawi

Rating:  10/10

Comments :  There is no such thing as perfect paradise, but this place comes pretty close.

View of Makuzi Lodge & campsite

Lukwe Lodge & campsite - Livingstonia

Cost  -   R 77 pp             No. of days Stayed  -  2      |  Wi-Fi  -No   |       Electricity Point  - No

 Reason for staying: Livingstonia

Attraction: Lofty views of Lake Malawi & Livingstonia town

Rating:  08/10

Comments :  This green  eco- campsite might not be every-ones cup of tea, but you have to admire the owners for what they have done.  The campsite is spotlessly clean & you can’t help but noticing the attention to detail.

Bar at Lukwe Lodge & campsite

 Mikoma Lodge - Karonga

Cost  -   R 115 pp             No. of days Stayed  - 1      |  Wi-Fi  - Hotspot   |       Electricity Point  - Yes

 Reason for staying: Border Crossing

Attraction:  Close to Songa Border

Rating:  7/10

Comments :  This turned out to be a rather pleasant overnight camp.  It doesn’t really have an official campsite, but they allow you to camp on the beach or next to a chalet.    They opened up a chalet for us & we had full use of it. Showers, toilet, electricity, air-con & a TV with sound & no picture